A dryer in San Leandro that runs but leaves clothes damp, needs two cycles, will not tumble or smells hot usually has one of a few problems: a restricted vent, a failed heating part (element, igniter or gas valve), a blown thermal fuse, a broken belt or worn rollers. The vent comes first, because it causes most slow-drying complaints and because lint is what turns a dryer problem into a fire risk.
Lint, vents and fire risk
A dryer pushes hot, damp, lint-laden air through a duct to the outside. As lint builds up in that duct, airflow drops, the dryer runs hotter and longer, and lint collects inside the cabinet near the heater or burner. Fire safety agencies list failure to clean as the leading cause of home dryer fires.
Warning signs:
- Loads take noticeably longer than they used to.
- The top of the dryer and the clothes feel unusually hot.
- The outside vent flap barely opens while the dryer runs.
- A hot or burning smell, or lint showing around the door or behind the machine.
On a dryer visit we look at the lint screen housing, the duct behind the dryer, the run to the outside and the exterior hood. Foil or plastic accordion ducts crush easily and trap lint; rigid or semi-rigid metal duct is the safer choice. Long runs with several elbows clog faster and need cleaning more often. Vent cleaning is part of the work we do.
Not heating: electric and gas dryers fail differently
Electric dryers need both halves of a 240-volt circuit. If one half of the double breaker trips, the drum still turns but there is no heat — so check the breaker before anything else. After that, the usual causes are an open heating element, a blown thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat, or a failed cycling thermostat.
Gas dryers light with a glow-bar igniter and a flame sensor that tells the gas valve when to open. If the igniter never glows, the igniter, the flame sensor or a thermal fuse is the likely suspect. If it glows, goes out and no flame follows, the gas valve coils are a common cause.
A thermal fuse is a one-time safety part. It blows when the dryer overheats — usually because of a restricted vent — so replacing it without clearing the vent just sets up the next failure.
Symptoms and what they usually mean
| What you notice | Likely cause | What it usually takes |
|---|---|---|
| Takes two cycles to dry | Restricted vent or clogged lint screen housing | Vent cleaning, duct correction |
| Tumbles, no heat (electric) | Breaker half tripped, element or thermal fuse | Element or fuse, after a vent check |
| Tumbles, no heat (gas) | Igniter, flame sensor or valve coils | Ignition part |
| Motor runs, drum does not turn | Broken belt or idler pulley | Belt or pulley |
| Thumping or squealing | Worn drum rollers, idler pulley or drum glides | Roller and pulley parts |
| Will not start at all | Door switch, thermal fuse, start switch or control | Electrical testing |
| Stops early, clothes still damp | Dirty moisture sensor bars or vent restriction | Sensor cleaning, vent check |
| Burning smell | Lint near the heater or burner, overheating motor | Stop using it; inspection |
Gas dryers: two extra precautions
A gas dryer needs a clear vent for another reason: a blocked vent can push combustion gases, including carbon monoxide, back into the house. Keep a working carbon monoxide alarm in the home. If you ever smell gas near the dryer, do not switch anything on or off — leave the house and call the gas utility’s emergency line or 911 from outside. Once the gas supply is safe, we repair the dryer.
Ventless, heat-pump and premium dryers
Ventless condenser and heat-pump dryers, such as Miele’s heat-pump models, have no outside duct, but they have extra lint filters and a heat exchanger that must stay clean. When those clog, drying times stretch just as they do with a blocked vent. We repair vented and ventless dryers from Speed Queen, Miele, LG, Samsung and other brands. Choosing a new laundry pair? Our Speed Queen vs Miele washer comparison covers the two brands’ approach, and washer repair covers the other half of the laundry room.
What affects the price
Most dryer repairs fall between $89 and $400, and that includes a safety inspection. Thermal fuses, thermostats, belts and door switches are at the low end; heating elements, igniters, rollers and idler pulleys are in the middle; motors, gas valves and control boards are at the top. You see the price before work starts, and repairs carry a 90-day warranty.
Before you call: safe things to check
- The lint screen is clean. If dryer sheets have left a film on it, wash it with warm soapy water.
- Both halves of the breaker are on (electric dryers).
- The gas valve behind the dryer is open (gas dryers).
- The duct behind the dryer is not crushed against the wall.
- The outside flap opens when the dryer runs.
Unplug the dryer before moving it, and do not run it while it smells hot.